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The fish sandwich.

A guide to local food in Polignano a Mare. What and where to eat.

Polignano a Mare is rich in eateries with good food. However, it’s good to know what and where to eat something tasty in the town. 

Let’s start with  a short guide to local food in Polignano a Mare.

1. Raw seafood

This is pretty common for any seaside town in Italy.
If you like raw and fresh seafood, you can try cuttlefish, sea urchins, red prawns, purple prawns, scampi, mussels, and many other types of fish. I have never tried and rather will never do, so I have no idea whether it’s edible, but many people love raw Frutti di mare.


Raw sea food lying on the crushed ice.
Raw sea food.


2. Rice Potatoes and Mussels (or Potatoes Rice and mussels or, La Tiella Barese)


Rice with sliced potatoes in a white bowl.
La Tiella Barese.


This is a typical dish in the province of Bari and it’s amazing. It’s made in layers: onion, potatoes, mussels, and rice covered with pepper and pecorino. Then you have to add a few cherry tomatoes and again onion, potatoes, mussels, rice, potatoes. Next chefs bake it  in the oven for about 45 minutes and then you can enjoy this gastronomic madness that has an extraordinary taste.


3. Broad beans and chicory, that I love and can eat over and over again.You can find this dish only in Puglia. It is made of dry broad beans that are soaked for a few hours, then boiled as long as it became purre. Then chicory is added and olive oil on the top.
You can eat this dish with toasted bread


4. The eggplant ParmigianaAnother dish that makes you lose your senses just to smell it. Slices of eggplant are first fried (in flour and egg batter) and then placed in a pan in which cooked ham, lots of parmesan, and tomato sauce are added. Have never tried, as I don’t eat meat.

Baked aubergine with cheese and a piece of basilic in the oven dish.
Baked aubergine with cheese.


5. The special coffee of Polignano a Mare
You will drink the Polignano coffee in small glasses, but it doesn’t make it special. The coffee  is unique  because baristas add sugar, lemon zest, cream, and amaretto to it. The combination of coffee and lemon is pretty interesting.

Small coffee with foam on the top served in a small shot glass.
The special coffee of Polignano a Mare.


6. The focaccia of Polignano

Focaccia is typical for Bari and basically, the Focaccia of Polignano has the same ingredients, but there the difference is made by experience, the oven, and the pan.

7. Fish sandwiches

I haven’t tried yet, but they look delicious. Rosetta rolls are filled with seafood such as raw salmon, octopus, prawn, swordfish, etc. Often chefs add also burrata, salo, and other top-secret ingredients.

I hope I have I made you hungry!


 Where to eat then?

Polignano a Mare has places for any budget. You can eat in a posh restaurant, you can eat in a tavern, or even take something away and eat sitting on the pavement.
I’m not into fancy restaurants in general, however, sometimes happens to me to visit this kind of place.

Last time we went to Le Foccace Ignoranti (street food philosphy), that is in 48 Via Roma.

The door and the signboard ot the eatery.
The eatery Le Foccace Ignoranti.


The place itself is a small eatery with tables outside. It’s popular and we were lucky we got a table without waiting, but probably just because we came before 1pm.

Thes treet food eatery with people sitting at outside tables.
The tables outside the small restaurant.


In theory they Le Foccace Ignoranti specialize in sandwiches, but there is a good choice of dishes. What can I say? The food was great. We had planned to  have a quick lunch, but I think we spent over two hours there. 

We tend to order a few plates and share, so in this way, we can try more dishes.

At the beginning we enjoyed mussels with potatoes and rice. The taste was amazing. I have tried it for the first time and I really loved that potatoes and rice overflowing with the taste and aroma of mussels, but at the same time retained their taste.

Then we had broad bean with chicory. Anew, very tasty. I think this is one of my favourite Italian dishes and I can eat it over and over again.

A dish containg cooked green vegatable, broad bean puree and two pieces of bread in a white plate.
Broad bean with chicory


Then we had orecchiete with crema di rappe and straciatella.

I am not a fan of fresh pasta, I prefer the dry one from the shop, what usually causes surprise and scandal to the natives. But I am a foreigner, so it is understandable I know nothing about food.
Anyway, orecchiette is typical Bariese fresh pasta in a funny shape. Usually, everyone loves it, except me. But I love crema di rappe, which is a green vegetable looking like wee broccoli, it grows only in Puglia. It has a bit bitter taste, and again it’s one of my favourite foods here.


Green orecchiette pasta with cream on the top in a white plate.
Orecchiete with crema di rappe and straciatella.

Orechiette, that I don’t like mixed with crema di rappe, that I love and stracciatella, that I like waw just great. Orecchiette melted in the mouth and didn’t taste like normally fresh pasta does. Straciatella added a creamy note and I was surprised that the flavour was so mouth-watering.

Then we had fried zucchini flowers with cheese, I think mozzarella inside.

It was very good, however I wouldn’t eat it every day, because it was fried. 


A small paper box with fried food inside and one silver fork.
Fried zucchini flowers


Finally, just because we still had some room in our stomachs, we had a piece of cake made of ricotta and chocolate.

This is again a cake typical for the Puglia region. I love cheese, I love everything with ricotta or any other soft cheese. The cake was amazing.

A piece ot ricotta cake with strips of cought and chocolate bits on the top on the napkin and dark plate.
Ricotta cake.


We had also a bottle of wine.

We spend 60 euros, and it was definitely worth it.

It doesn’t happen very often that everything is great: delicious food, good and quick service, a real street food place atmosphere and reasonable prices. I think Le foccace ignoranti is a family-run business. Definitely recommended it and actually, I would go to Polignano a Mare just to eat there again.

Our next table neighbours had an octopus and a sandwich and according to them, the dishes were amazing. 

Grilled octopus in the white plate.



Other good places to eat without going bankrupt

The Pescaria in 6/8 Piazza Aldo Moro. They specialize in sandwiches, but they also have salads with tartare, fried fish, fish balls, and even vegetarian and vegan dishes. Haven’t been there, but judging by the queue, they make fantastic food. 

The Al Buco Preferito Tranquillage I visited maybe 2 years ago. Is in 4 Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi, so in the very center. They do pizza, I remember it was excellent. The place is tiny, but you can sit outside. Again, if you fancy pizza, it’s a place to go. 

I haven’t tried any high-budget place in Polignano a Mare, so far and I cannot recommend anything. But as soon as I try, I will update the post. 

If it comes to coffee, you definiately have to go to The Super Mago del Gelo, in 22 Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi. 

The bar has a long history, and according to the locals, hasn’t changed during the years. They serve good coffee with cream, amaretto, and lemon peel.

The best rice cream in Polignano a Mare, at least according to many people, you can eat in The Caruso, 3 Martiri di Dogali

Now you know how and where to eat in Polignano a Mare. Have you eaten anything else in Polignano a Mare? let me know in comments.

Bon appetit.

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