Can you imagine spending a realxing day in free outdoor beauty saloons in Tuscany? Why not? It’s possible, for example in Bagno Vignoni and Bagni San Fillipo. Tuscany is rich in hot springs and many of them are open to the public. 

 

I’ve been to Tuscany twice or three times and needless to say visited the most popular tourist spots. Staying in Perugia,  Umbria, which is just a hop or two away from Tuscany, it would be weird if I didn’t visit this beautiful region of Italy.
Being before in Saturnia, which is a place with thermal water, we decided to look in on other  hot springs. Had packed towels, lunch and of course swimming suits we headed up to Bagno Vignoni, which is about 1.30 hours by car from Perugia

Bagno Vignoni at first glance looks like a typical medieval Tuscan town.

Small stone houses surround the main square and there’s nothing unusual about it. But an unusual thing is that the square is a pool filled with hot steaming thermal water emerging from an underground layer of volcanic origin. The Etruscans and Romans already knew very well the advantages of thermal water. Many archeological finds evidence this. 

In the middle of the pool, there is a silver sculpture, which I’m guessing, is a symbol of something. Well, it looks just ridiculous. Apart from the silver … construction, the square is a lovely place with restaurants and bars also open for lunch.

The water flowing from the pool heads towards the steep slope of the Natural Park of The Mills. It falls and creates a waterfall. At the top, you can admire the ruins of mills and soak your feet in hot streams.
You can enjoy SPA and professional treatments in the town.

You can also enjoy a free outdoor pool, as we did.

We went down below the main town and followed the path (suitable for cars as well). After a short walk, we found the first large pool. Hmm, to be honest, I wasn’t convinced I want to have a bath there. Stagnant water covered with leaves, even the thermal ones, doesn’t appeal to me.

Just above the large pool, we found there a second smaller pond, full of people. I liked sitting in the water full of beneficial minerals. Well, I am not sure if several minutes were enough to smooth out my skin, but it was still nice. The bottom of the pool is covered with mud with a high content of elements. After drying the mud is nothing more than clay, which is used as cosmetic masks. Normally you have to buy them, sometimes paying a lot of money. And here you go! I was sitting on free cosmetics! The locals appreciate thermal waters, because they gladly covered themselves with mud.

Because the place was becoming busier and busier we decided to move to another Bagni San Filippo.  Afer driving maybe 30 min, we got there.

Hidden in a forest Bagni San Filippo is much bigger, busier, and in my opinion, a more beautiful place.

 Bagni San Filippo is also known since Roman times and also there you can visit a regular SPA.
We parked at free parking (double check, some park places are not for free). San Filippo is a small village, so again you can eat and drink there if you didn’t bring anything with you. 

To find a free outdoor SPA you just have to follow the path. The area is quite long, but the first pools we found just at the beginning of the way. Even so, we decided to continue to follow the path.

While walking along the track, we saw numerous mini waterfalls and pools where people were sitting or laying.  There was a slightly foul smell in the air, but everyone seemed to enjoy relaxing warm water.

More or less in the middle of the path, I saw something I have never seen in my life.

Above the bath, there was a white rock from which small waterfalls flowed. It was massive, unusual, and beautiful. It looks like a rock, but actually it’s the formation of calcium and waterfall and it’s called a ‘White Whale’. The White Whale, white-blue water in pools, and the green forest in the background have composed an amazing scene.

 

You can follow the path further, but we stopped there and decided to immerse our limbs in the beneficial water.

The place was busy, even very busy, so I started to hunt for the poll. I wasn’t the only pool hunter, and it was funny to see how people rushed to every free space. Anyway, after some minutes I was lucky and jumped into a mini-pool with my private mini-waterfall. I didn’t enjoy my own space for long but it didn’t matter. I had the best spot in the pond  with water running down my back.  Spent maybe 2 hours there and it was a very pleasant time. I think it was one of the nicest ‘doing nothing’ moments. Pure laziness and relaxation, so I simply loved it.
The water at the White Whale coming out at 48 degrees. I can imagine it must be cool to come there in spring or winter.

I really enjoyed the day. However, if you want to visit any outdoor thermal bath, it’s good to prepare yourself. 

If it comes to food, you can bring your own and have a nice picnic, or you can eat in either restaurant.

There are no public changing rooms, so you can come in a suitbath or take a large towel to make easier to change.

There are no life guards and  it’s good to keep common sense, even though  both baths are shallow.

The path to Bagno Vignoni is rather easy, but Bagni san Filippo is a hilly area. Comfortable sandals/shoes, not flip-flops, are a better choice. 

Bring a towel and suntan lotion. While Bagni San Filippo is in the forest, Bagno Vignoni is rather exposed and  there is no shade. 

And remember, both places are busy.